Not everyone goes to Jamaica for the beaches and golf courses. Many now go for the flora and fauna this lush tropical island possesses as well as the peace and solitude one can find in the hills. Jamaica is blessed with over 200 species of birds (30 are considered endemic to the island) and 50 or more species of visitors. The best time of the year is from December through the end of May both for the birds and tourists from the cold Northern climes. During this time many of the resident birds are nesting and singing. The Northern birds following the Mississippi and Atlantic flyways either stay and spend the winter in Jamaica and other islands in the West Indies or stop briefly on their way further South. Some of the birds commonly seen in North America are also considered fairly common in Jamaica and during the winter migration their numbers grow. This makes Jamaica an ideal place for any "birder" to add new birds to their life lists.

Perhaps the most popular bird for any tourist to spot is the national bird known as the Doctor Bird. Its idealized picture is found on many things Jamaican including the tail logo of Air Jamaica, the national airline of Jamaica. "Doctor Bird" is the local name for the "Streamertail" hummingbird. There are actually 2 species of Streamertail. The one most commonly seen in the Western Parishes is the Red Billed Streamertail

and the less common resident of the Eastern Parishes is the Black-Billed Streamertail. Jamaica boasts 4 different hummingbirds, the Red & Black Billed hummers, the larger black/bronze Mango hummer with it's slightly curved bill and one of the smallest hummingbirds in the world the Vervain. It can almost be mistaken for a bee until you take a closer look and see that it is in fact a very small bird, only 2" in length!

Finding hummingbirds is quite easy. Many of the resorts in the Negril area have lush tropical foliage with lots of flowers. Flowers are what hummingbirds love the best. Hibiscus and bougainvillea are probably the most common along property lines as well as the colorfully leafed crotons. But by far the most incredible of all the flowering plants is the "orchid tree" When they are covered with their large orchid like flowers, you'll find hummingbirds. During the winter months when courting is going on, you can hear them before you actually see them. They make a sharp "chip, chip, chip" sound. Follow your ears and eventually you'll see the bird. The female Streamertail hummingbird does not have the long Streamertail, but you'll know that she is a Streamertail by her green color back and white breast and, if it's breeding season, there will be a male close by. Like hummingbirds everywhere, they are aggressive and territorial so early spring/winter is a good time to listen for them.

Birdwatching is so easy in Jamaica, you barely have to leave your lounge chair on the beach. From that lazy vantage point, you can spot the Magnificent Frigate Bird floating high above, looking for all the world like something from Jurassic Park. During the winter months you'll see small flocks of Ruddy Turnstone

Along the beach not far from the restaurants or dining areas, you'll notice a large shinny black bird with a long tail. The Antillean Grackle is locally known as the "Kling, Kling" bird and when he starts making his "kling, kling" noise it becomes apparent why they are called that. They love handouts and scraps of food and are not too shy especially when they are looking for a snack.

Most people associate parrots with the tropics and indeed, Jamaica has parrots, but their numbers are dwindling due to poaching for the pet trade and the ganja farmers killing them off. It seems that parrots just LOVE ganja seeds and will tear apart the bud of the plant to get at the seeds making the crop much harder to sell!! Many of the ganja farmers have devised a way to keep the parrots from their precious crops by tying a piece of meat to a stake in the ground, which attracts Turkey Vultures. The Vultures circle lazily above which, in theory, will keep the parrots away. I don't know if this works, but I sure hope so because it's a much better way to control them rather than killing them. You can still hear parrots flying over head, they squawk and perch high over head and their color matches the leaves of the trees so well, you will find it difficult to see them unless they have landed in a snag (dead, leafless trees).

These are just some of the birds you can see without making any kind of effort (after all you're on vacation).

WHERE TO GO

While you don't really have to go anywhere to see birds, the "dyed in the wool" birder will want to know a few places for locating the best, the hardest or the rarest. Here are some suggestions:

COCKPIT COUNTRY:

This trip will require a four wheel drive vehicle, a picnic lunch and a Jamaican guide to show you the way. Cockpit country has the least amount of tourists wandering around it as well as the least amount of Jamaicans. It is truly remote and therefore a great place to see birds. This is a "leave at dawn" trip where road maps and a driver who's familiar with Jamaica's back roads are necessities. The best place in Cockpit is a little region known as Barbeque Bottom. It is located mid way between Albert Town and Clark's Town in the Parish of Trelawney

BLACK RIVER:

A popular tourist site, but nonetheless a great place for getting to see water birds and waders. You'll see egrets, herons, ducks, etc. while you cruise up river on a boat. You'll also get to see alligators!

SOUTH NEGRIL RIVER:

This trip has not caught on yet with the tourists and thankfully so. Because the river is so shallow at the mouth, only a few boats are able to navigate it. I recommend "Children's Bread" which is usually docked on the South end of Negril Beach by the Traveller's Beach Resort. Just ask for Shorty and he will be happy to make arrangements for you. The Negril River cuts in the "Great Morass" a fantastic wetland that is thankfully being preserved both for its natural beauty and for its functionality of keeping the town of Negril from flooding during big storms and acting as a filter to keep the water clean. Here you will find herons, egrets, ducks, rails, black necked stilts, cuckoos, hawks, and vultures, just to name a few. If you take this trip in the late afternoon with plans to return during sunset, you'll stop and visit the "bird tree" which is a tree located near the bridge in Negril that is a popular roosting site for hundreds of herons, egrets etc.

ROCKLANDS FEEDING STATION:

Here is a tourist site that will delight all the members in your family, even the ones that don't care for your enthusiasm about birds. Rocklands is noted for hummingbirds that feed right out of your hand. So if you want a real good up close experience with Jamaica's national bird, check out this tour. If you go early enough in the day, you can also take a guided tour on their nature trail where you see all kinds of Jamaican birds both visiting and endemic. This is a good trip for both the beginning and the experienced birder. It is located on the North coast of Jamaica, not far from Montego Bay.

BLUE MOUNTAIN:

This is a trip that must be planned in advance, will require a 4 wheel drive vehicle and a good guide. This is also where you have the best chance of seeing the "Black Billed Streamertail" hummingbird. There are a few small inns and B&B type places near the mountain. Check with a travel agent or the Jamaica Tourist Board for more info on guides and places to stay at Blue Mountain. I have heard that sunrise on the summit is a must see. This is a trip for the hearty and strong. While you can drive most of the way by 4 wheel drive vehicle, the rest of the way is a hike. Sturdy shoes, a light jacket or sweater and plenty of sun screen will be required for this trip.

MANDEVILLE:

This town is located in the Parish of Westmoreland, a few hours drive from Sav LaMar and Negril or a quick flight. Mandeville is unique, has it's own personality and is considered a garden town. They have a botanical garden for tourists to visit and plenty of birds in that garden. The climate is more humid and therefore it can be cooler or hotter depending on the time of the year so prepare accordingly. There are two hotels in Mandeville if you wish to make this a 2 day trip and they can be booked beforehand or after you arrive in town.

DOLPHIN HEAD MOUNTAIN:

This trip is usually booked as a hike, but take the binoculars and field guide along and it becomes a bird watching expedition. Delroy and Julie book these trips and provide transportation, light snack foods, water etc for this day long expedition. If you tell them you want to birdwatch, they will keep the pace slower so you can "get a good look". The hike is not easy, but not too difficult either so be prepared to sweat, but once you reach the top you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of Negril, Orange Bay, and the interior of Jamaica. This trip is worth carrying the camera along too. Dolphin Head is located near Green Island, just North of the town of Negril.

WALKING NEGRIL:

Many tourists love to walk in Negril, especially along the beach. Along the beach you'll see Ruddy Turnstone, Magnificent Frigate Birds, Herons, Egrets, Antillean Grackles, Banana Quits, Hummingbirds, Brown Pelicans, Belted Kingfishers, Owls, Parrots, Royal Terns and more. Best time for walking is in the early morning when the fishing boats are pulling in with their catch and the tourists are still in bed or having breakfast. You can contact Delroy and Julie through most of the Negril hotels including the Negril Yacht Club on the West End Road

RED GROUND DISTRICT:

In the cliff area known as the "West End" of Negril you will find a section known as Red Ground. One of the best walks I've discovered starts along the West End Road. A good starting place would be the Negril Yacht Club or the Silver Star Cafe for a hearty breakfast and then head South on the West End Road to Westland Mountain Road. Follow the road all the way to the top of the hill (not really so bad when you are stopping all the time to look at birds), at the top you will notice some water towers on your left, walk towards the water towers and you'll notice a dirt road, follow it. It goes through some beautiful small farms, has some great views of Negril and you'll find lots of different birds up here, like the Jamaican Woodpecker American Kestrels, Smooth billed Anis, Turkey Vultures, Grass Quits, Grasshopper Sparrows, etc. Follow this dirt road all the way to a crossing paved road. This road is Hermitage Road, turn left and follow it through a residential area (good for hummers, banana quits, doves) until you come to a large church on your right and the West End Road once again. Turn left and you'll be heading back to your starting point. This hike is roughly 3 miles and is fairly easy. It is also a great way to meet Jamaicans so plan on stopping for a spell to chat and talk about what you're doing. You'll be pleasantly surprised at just how much Jamaicans know about their birds and will be happy to tell you some of the local folk lore about them as well as the names they use for them. This is one of my favorite bird watching haunts.

ROYAL PALM PRESERVE:

This is a nature center that was built many years ago and then left to "wilt on the vine" once a new government was installed. Thankfully, the government has seen fit to open the area to tourists. It is in the Great Morass, not far from the little town of Sheffield. It is a short taxi ride away from Negril. Besides being a great place for birdwatching it also features all kinds of plants and flowers to observe as well. There is a visitor center and snack bar there too.

SHEFFIELD ROAD:

Here is another walk to enjoy and meet people as well as new birds along the way. The Road travels along the back side of the Morass all the way to the town of Logwood which is where the water supply for Negril starts. On your left you have the flat morass and on the right steep cliffs and bush. You will find yourself looking back and forth quite a bit as the road seems to divide two different climes. It is several miles to Logwood so if you plan to do the whole hike, plan to have someone meet you there in a car, or simply drive it yourself and stop along the way frequently for observations. Along this road you will find Jamaican Oriels, Orangequits, Jamaican Woodpeckers, White Crowned Pigeons, King Birds, Stripe Headed Tanagers and more. Early morning is best.

NEGRIL LIGHTHOUSE AND BEYOND:

I find sitting on the cliff by the lighthouse both relaxing and rewarding. Not only do you see birds, but you can also spot pods of dolphins frequently. So plan to take a picnic lunch with you and plan to spend the day. Snorkel gear would be fun to have along too. If you have a car, you can also drive past the Lighthouse and head towards Hogg Heaven and beyond. This land is all owned by Mr. Hogg and while there is some construction going on there, there are still many properties waiting for new owners and thus lots of open space and habitat for birds. This actually would be a good trip by bicycle!

YS FALLS & MAYFIELD FALLS:

These are both beautiful tourists destinations and while they tend to be somewhat crowded during high season, they too have a great variety of birds simply because of the water and the flowering foliage. Hummers, woodpeckers, Banana Quits etc. can be found quite easily. Around the cattle pastures at YS Falls, look for Smooth Billed Anis and Jamaican Crows.

FINDING YOUR OWN FAVORITE BIRDING PLACE:

Go exploring and find your own personal bird paradise. Always remember to be cautious, and respectful of private property. In most cases if you just ask the owner if you can walk on their land, they will say yes. They may even be helpful in helping you find a particular bird. Remember, that water is a very important ingredient in a birds life so where there's water you'll find birds.

REFERENCE BOOKS & FIELD GUIDES:

North American field guides are essential especially if you are going to Jamaica in the winter. Many North American birds can be found wintering there just like you! I recommend the Peterson's Birds of North America, and the Stokes Field Guide (Eastern Region). For endemic birds of Jamaica I carry the Peterson field guide "Birds of the West Indies" by James Bond (yes, James Bond), "Birds of Jamaica - A photographic Field Guide" by Audrey Downer and Robert Sutton (this book is currently out of print, but it can still be found in many of the gift shops in Negril). The newest and best I've seen so far is the Princeton Press book "A Guide To The Birds Of The West Indies", richly colored plates, excellent information on each bird, color plates of endemic birds for each island and much more. Most of these books can be purchased on line at either amazon.com or barnesandnoble.com.

LINKS ON THE INTERNET OF INTEREST:

http://www.skyejet.demon.co.uk/islander/issue1/bluejohn.htm

http://www.nestbox.com/jan97.htm

http://www.nestbox.com/list.txt

So pack your sun screen, bird books, sturdy walking shoes and your binoculars and come see the birds and beauty of Jamaica!